
The mighty Sazerac cocktail at The Sazerac Bar
2. Eat oysters: Besides the pristine raw Gulf oysters, try the countless cooked concoctions, ranging from deep-fried, to poached, to gratinéed with herbs, garlic and breadcrumbs, to the classic Rockefeller and the ubiquitous oyster stew.
Where to go: Acme Oyster House, 724 Iberville St., 504-522-5973, or Pascal's Manale, 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504-895-4877.
3. Book a table at Galatoire's: No New Orleans restaurant does Old World charm quite like Galatoire's, thanks to the bustling ambience and old-school waiters, but mostly the turtle soup, soft-shell crab, trout amandine and grilled pompano Meunière. If I lived in New Orleans, Galatoire's would be my hangout.
Where to go: Galatoire's, 209 Bourbon St., 504-525-2021.

The lunch crowd at Galatoire's
4. Breakfast on beignets at Café du Monde: New Orleans is hot and muggy, so who wants a tall cup of coffee and a plate filled with hot, icing sugar-doused beignets? But bite into these babies and you're sure to swoon. The coffee's pretty swell, too, and the people-watching is as good as it gets. Get there early to avoid the huge lineups.
Where to go: Café du Monde, 1039 Decatur St., 504-525-4544.

Beignets at Café du Monde
5. Eat a bowl of gumbo: Gumbo is easily the most talked-about dish in the city, and the dishes I sampled of this famous Creole stew ranged from awful to miraculous. Avoid the touristy gumbo stops and head straight to Herbsaint for what is arguably the best bowl of gumbo in New Orleans.
Where to go: Herbsaint, 701 Charles Ave., 504-524-4114.

The unbeatable gumbo at Herbsaint
6. Taste a po-boy sandwich: A po-boy can contain anything from those crispy oysters to roast beef to fried catfish. The key is the French-style roll on which it is served. Calorific verging on decadent, it's also delicious.
Where to go: There are countless po-boy shops, but the most buzz comes from Parkway Bakery & Tavern, 358 Hagan Ave., 504-482-3047.

The Leidenheimer po-boy truck delivers po-boy rolls to restaurants
7. Have lunch at Dooky Chase: With a downtrodden exterior and lavish interior, Dooky Chase offers an authentic Creole lunchtime buffet, complete with fried catfish, fried eggplant, gumbo z'herbes and some of the best fried chicken south of the Mason-Dixon Line. When Barack Obama is in town, this is where he gets his shrimp Creole.
Where to go: Dooky Chase, 2301 Orleans Ave., 504-821-0600.

Fried chicken at Dooky Chase
8. Eat a muffuletta sandwich: Expect a 20-minute-long line to get one, but this sandwich, made with salami, mortadella, ham, Emmentaler cheese, and an olive salad poised on top of the cold cuts, is a thing of beauty.