But with so many of us pressed for time and all of us counting calories, why bake? "Homemade is always better," says Baird. "You can control the ingredients you use, express your own personality and tastes, and add your own traditions. There's also the pleasure and fun of baking with children, making, accomplishing and succeeding. And there's the tactile pleasure of feeling the dough with your hands and all those tastes that entertain your mouth."

Of all the great cooks I know, few of them bake. The two words "pie crust" make them shake. Baird's advice to them is to "get your hands in the flour" and start with formulas that guarantee success such as cookies and muffins.

A good recipe is also essential to success. "Our recipes are reliable," says Baird. "It's an obligation on our part. Otherwise, people wouldn't make them. Our goal is to really guide you: What it should look like, how it should smell ... the idea being to build skills. Otherwise, you turn people into robots, and you want to turn them into bakers."

The bulk of the recipes have come via the magazine, but there are original recipes as well, including a section on savoury baked goods, including pot pies, galettes and pizzas. The book begins with introductory chapters on technique ranging from how to best cut out cookies to the definition of "baking blind."

One thing you won't find in the book is Baird's 10 steps to making you a better baker. That she shared only with me. Here they are, along with a recipe from the book for scrumptious chocolate biscotti.

1) Read through the recipe from beginning to end before starting.

2) Be sure all dry and liquid measures are precisely measured.

3) Always preheat your oven in advance, and be sure it reaches the right temperature. If ever you suspect your oven is not properly calibrated, buy an oven thermometer.

4) For pastry, be sure all ingredients are kept cold. For cakes and cookies, allow all ingredients to come to room temperature before proceeding.

5) Invest in good equipment. Don't waste your money on flimsy baking sheets, but don't overpay for insulated baking sheets that don't prevent cookies from burning. Top-quality equipment doesn't come cheap, but it's a lifelong investment worth the cost because your baking will succeed.

6) Arrange your baking racks to suit what you are baking. Cakes bake in the middle, pizzas on the bottom, and pies on the bottom third.

7) Parchment paper is a godsend. It costs more but it's reusable, and the time it saves in clean-up is worth every penny.

8) Respect the cooling times. Don't unmould a cake while still hot, especially bundt cakes, which can split before cooling.

9) Don't always rely on a machine to do the mixing. Try to make the occasional recipe by hand to get the feel for the dough. Cookie dough is a breeze to make by hand when you start with room-temperature ingredients.

10) Leave yourself the time to enjoy the process. And have fun. Baking is a sensual experience. Feel it, taste it, share with your friends. Don't forget you're creating pleasure.

recipe: DOUBLE CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT BISCOTTI