Jennifer McLagan's Fat, Fat-Cooked Fries
serves 4

McLagan writes: "I love that the source of this recipe is Michel Guérard, the author of Cuisine Minceur (diet food). It is reassuring to know that the chef that gave us French lean cuisine also appreciates the power of duck fat."

4 Yukon Gold or Russet potatoes (about 1 3/4 lbs or 800g in total)

1/4 cup (50 mL) duck fat

1 garlic clove, unpeeled

2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped parsley

Fleur de sel

Peel the potatoes and cut lengthwise into quarters. Rinse them in cold water and place in a bowl. Cover with cold water and let them soak for 30 minutes.

Drain the potatoes and dry them well. In a heavy flameproof casserole large enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer, heat the duck fat over medium-high heat. When it begins to smoke, add the potatoes and the garlic clove. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the potatoes, tuning them so that they colour evenly, until golden on all sides, 15-20 minutes.

Remove the garlic and discard. Transfer the potatoes to a large plate and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat. Return the potatoes to the pan, cover, and cook over low heat until they are cooked through, about 15 minutes. Check them regularly, turning if necessary, and if you hear the fat spitting, lift the lid and wipe off the excess moisture on the inside of it. 

When the potatoes are soft in the centre, transfer them a warmed dish and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and fleur de sel, turning so they are well coated.

 

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LESLEY CHESTERMAN
is a columnist and
fine-dining critic for
The Montreal Gazette
since 1999.

Any interviews of restaurant management or staff were conducted after the meals and services had been appraised.

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