6741 St. Laurent Blvd. (near St. Zotique St.); 514-544-1644; open: Mon.-Fri. noon-11 p.m.; Sat. 5-11 p.m. (or closing; wheelchair access; vegetarian-friendly; major cards; price range: $$$-$$$$.
Published on Mar 26, 2009
Photo Phil Carpenter, The Gazette
Seafood Pasta
Do you know Robert Beauchemin? Robert, or, as I like to call him, “the competition,” is one of two restaurant reviewers – the other being Marie-Claude Lortie – who write for that French daily that starts with a “La Pr” and ends with an “esse.”
3518 St. Laurent Blvd. (Near Prince Arthur St.); 514-848-0644; open: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m. to midnight (until 1 a.m. Thurs.-Sat.); Sun. 4 p.m. to midnight; bar open until 3 a.m. daily; no wheelchair access; reservations are essential; optional $15 valet parking; vegetarian-friendly; price range: $$$-$$$$.
Published on Mar 17, 2009
Photo The GAZETTE/Tyrel Featherstone
Pappardelle and prosciutto with pears
Seated next to some die-hard foodies recently at the High Lights Festival, I couldn’t help but eavesdrop. The topic was whether the black radishes on the plate were enhanced by the biodynamic, unfiltered Jura wine in their glasses or quashed by it.
The discourse was so intense that the pitch soon evolved from chatty conversation to light yelling. I couldn’t believe my ears. I mean, I enjoy analyzing my food, but yelling over the radish/wine pairing is beyond even my foodie limit.
4448 St. Laurent Blvd. (near Mount Royal Ave.); 514-287-0287; www.macaronibar.ca; no wheelchair access (but yes in summer on the terrasse); vegetarian-friendly; reservations are essential; Price range: $$-$$$
Published on Mar 03, 2009
Photo ALLEN MCINNIS/ THE GAZETTE
Pork-belly lollipops
Is it just me, or is everyone in this city depressed this month? What with this crazy weather, the grim-reaper economy, that wonky octuplets mother, and the endless furrow-browed posturing of Duceppe and Marois, I just want to crawl into bed and pull over the duvet. If things keep up at this grim pace, this column will feature cocktail lounge reviews, anti-depressant recommendations, and recipes for magic-mushroom risotto garnished with St. John's wort. Thank heavens I don't take commuter trains!
Some claim mild depression can be alleviated simply by taking a bath, washing your hair, putting on a new outfit or heading out for some exercise. A brisk walk is indeed ideal (that is, unless you slip on the ice and fracture your tibia), but if you really need cheering up, I suggest you leap into walking shoes, car, taxi or bus and head straight to The Main, or, more specifically, the new supper club/restaurant Macaroni Bar.
8 Sherbrooke St. W. (in the Opus Hotel, near St. Laurent Blvd.); 514-657-5656; www.kokomontreal.com; wheelchair access; parking: $10 valet parking or on surrounding streets; price range: Starters $$$.
Published on Jan 28, 2009
Photo John Kenney, The Gazette
Asian beef tartare and dumplings
I have a love-hate relationship with trendy restaurants. Let's start with the love. I love the over-the-top decor, the ambitious menus, the groovy background tunes, the great-looking wait staff, the designer cocktails and the young-and-comely clientele. Most of all, I love the risk-taking element to these restaurants. It's all or nothing, baby, and when it works, a trendy restaurant can draw the crowds and reap the benefits.
Which brings me to what I hate.
3550 St. Laurent Blvd. (near Prince Arthur St.); Phone: 514-289-0998.; Open: Tuesday to Friday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; daily 5 p.m. to midnight; no wheelchair access; price range: $$-$$$.
Published on Nov 21, 2008
The single-ingredient dish is one that is easy to analyze. Bite into a steak, and familiar flavours flow through your senses. It's juicy or dry, tender or tough, fat or lean, flavourful or dull. Add some frites to that dish (crisp or limp, fluffy or floury, hot or warm, salty or underseasoned), and summing up a meal becomes child's play. No wonder diners' palates become lazy in a bistro-centred city like ours. To whip those palates into shape, may I suggest an evening of fine Thai cuisine?
3961 St. Laurent Blvd. (between Pine and Duluth Aves.); Phone: 514-845-1696; www.moishes.ca; no wheelchair access; reservations essential; free parking for customers in a lot behind the restaurant; price range: $$$-$$$$
Published on Jun 04, 2005
Photo Marcos Townsend, The Gazette
Owners Lenny (left) and Larry Lighter
Montreal's top restaurants seem to have it all: innovative menus, excellent chefs, superb local ingredients, appealing wine lists, and professional wait staffs. Yet as good as they are, they lack one essential ingredient: staying power. Time and again when dining at some new eatery, I walk away mumbling, "Great, but how long will it last?" So short-lived are some trendy restaurants that they serve their last passion fruit crème brûlée before critics even set foot in the place. With fashionistas as loyal to new restaurants as they are to last season's hemlines, such establishments never have the chance to evolve, build a strong customer base or even develop a few signature dishes.
And then there's Moishes.
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