9030 L’Acadie Blvd. (corner de Beauharnois St.); 514-850-0000; www.restaurantellada.com. All major cards and Interac; wheelchair access; parking lot on site;
vegetarian friendly; reservations are essential on weekends; price range: $$$.
Published on Apr 28, 2009
Whenever I yearn for something seriously scrumptious, Greek food tops my list. And I’ve noticed that even my most-reluctant dining companions are always up for a night of fine dining at our local estiatorio. Even my husband, the most unenthusiastic diner on the planet, never says “oxi” to Greek nibblies. Problem is, halfway through his first plate of calamari, he starts to regale me with stories about his great trip to Greece when he was 19 with his ex-girlfriend. Not my idea of romantic dinner conversation. Anyhow, there’s no denying the draw of good Greek grub, and as I’m not on the grub beat, I’m happy to get more than my share of excellent Greek cuisine prepared in the finest of restaurants.
96 Fleury St. W. (near St. Urbain St.); 514-504-7700; www.lesturbain.com; wheelchair access: two steps at the door; reservations are essential; vegetarian-friendly; major cards and Interac; Price range: $$-$$$
Published on Mar 06, 2009
The lunch scene at Le St-Urbain
There is nothing more exhilarating for a restaurant reviewer than entering a new restaurant that's packed to the rafters with diners forking up fabulous food, even more so if it's outside the usual fine-dining circuit. That's just what happened to me when I entered Ahuntsic's latest - or make that only - hot dining destination, Fleury St.'s Le St-Urbain.
2316 Beaubien St. E. (Near de Lorimier Ave.); 514-593-4200; www.barroger.com; wheelchair access: one step at the door; price range: $$-$$$
Published on Jan 19, 2009
The entranceway and counter at Chez Roger
I've decided, for 2009, to inject a little more positivity into this column. Yes, my friends, you'll have to look elsewhere for those scathing restaurant reviews you so adore. In these tough economic times, I will do my best to guide you to the good restaurants and steer you away from the, shall we say, less-than-stellar establishments without using words like "dreary," "dull" and, my all-time fave, "lacklustre." Mind you, a nasty waiter will never come out unscathed, a scary bathroom must always be mentioned, and a fly in the soup is a no-brainer. But constructive criticism has and will continue to be my goal, now more than ever, when Montreal restaurants need all the positive vibes they can get.
Okay, so on to this week's restaurant, Bistro Chez Roger, an establishment located on the happening strip of Beaubien St. east of Papineau - a neighbourhood in transition that now counts chef-owned restaurants, cafés, the occasional cheese shop and one terrific pet-supply store among its offerings.
3201 Graham Blvd. (near Côte de Liesse Rd.), Town of Mount Royal; 514-504-1378; www.villaarmando.ca; no wheelchair access; parking lot on site; vegetarian friendly; price range: $$$-$$$$
Published on Oct 31, 2008
This week, I'm reviewing a restaurant in Town of Mount Royal. The last time I reviewed a restaurant in T.M.R was, well ... never. Being a resident of this fine suburb and having lived here for close to three decades (with another one spent on the Plateau), I'm well- placed to say T.M.R. has excellent schools, beautiful homes and enough bilingual yuppies to fill a chardonnay tasting at the Big O. Yet despite the perks, there is one drawback: lousy restaurants. Outremont, Pointe Claire and even Westmount have greater gourmet cred than T.M.R. And with its bistros, catering shops and bakeries, Verdun's Wellington St. looks like the Champs Elysées next to T.M.R.'s dismal town centre.
1353 René Lévesque Blvd. E. (near Panet St.), 514-527-1016; www.kitchenetterestaurant.ca; no wheelchair access: parking: meters on surrounding streets; Price range: starters: $$$.
Published on Sep 08, 2008
Just two years ago, I dined at an excellent little restaurant called La Loie near the Gay Village. The draw was the wine-and-food pairing skill of sommelier François Thibeault, the innovative cuisine of chef David Caron and the retro decor of owner-designer Merlin Lambert. With its funky light fixtures designed by Quebec's Lampi Lampa and a sprawling bar fronting an open kitchen, this sweet and rather serious restaurant was just the ticket for anyone looking for thrills, be they from wine or the beautifully presented dishes.
Then, just over a year later, pouf! Lost in the shuffle at a time when so many restaurants were redecorating, relocating, renaming or rethinking their concept, the promising La Loie was no longer. Quel dommage! But then news came last winter that a young U.S. chef had scooped up this desirable location. A Houston native by the name of Nick Hodge, this chef-owner was soon impressing French and English critics alike with crab cakes, fish tartares, seafood pastas and stews, and - bless his Texan heart - ribs.
1840 Beaubien St. E. (corner Papineau Ave.) 514-722-2175; www.jolifou.com; no wheelchair access; reservations recommended; price range: $$$.
Published on Jul 12, 2008
lobster salad
I often question what draws customers back to a restaurant. Arresting decor? Rarely. Great food? Often. Solicitous service? Usually. Friendly people? Always.
If I had to choose the friendliest restaurant in our town of pretty friendly restaurants, Le Jolifou would be it. If that weren't enough, the decor is seriously cute, the service is flawless and the food is excellent.
But if you've dined here, you already know that. Since opening in the fall of 2004, Le Jolifou has garnered much praise and acquired many fans. Despite its off-the-beaten-track location, critics and fine diners warmed quickly to the dedication of chef David Ferguson and his wife, Hélène Brault, who acts not only as maître d' but resident sommelière and mother of three who live right upstairs.
Chef Mario Navarrete with sous-chef Rodrigo Flores
Mario Navarrete Jr. gets my vote for gutsiest chef in town. Just look at what he has been up to. In 2005 he opened Raza, Laurier Ave.'s Nuevo Latino restaurant, where critics swooned over dishes like foie gras empanadas and pumpkin soup with marshmallows. From his tiny, 16-by-10-foot kitchen, he turned out multi-course tasting menus of French/ Latin fusion that were beautiful, delicious and best of all, different. The room wasn't all that glitzy and sometimes the crowds were thin, but he won us over for his passion and originality.
It turns out this 33-year-old chef is also quite the businessman. He has now launched his second Nuevo Latino. It's called Madre (mother), it's in Rosemont, and judging from a meal I enjoyed there recently, it's also very good.
60 Jean Talon St. E. (corner Casgrain St.); Phone: 514-315-8994; Open: Tues. to Sat. 6 p.m. to closing; no wheelchair access; reservations essential; price range: $$-$$$.
Published on Oct 13, 2007
Photo Vincenzo d'Alto, The Gazette
Chef-owners Mathieu Cloutier and Jean-Philippe St-Denis with comis Axel Mevel
This review begins with an apology to the Gazette’s casual restaurant reviewer. Sarah Musgrave. Sarah, I'm sorry I stole your restaurant. I know you thought it was casual, and I realized my ripping it off your list was a little underhanded. But when I heard about the concept and the chef behind the endeavor, I just had to go. Yes this restaurant is a white-tablecloth-free zone and yes there are only 22 seats in a rather unadorned room. But scratch the surface and you'll find a neighbourhood bistro that equals and often surpasses many a flashier restaurant in town.
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